We had never been there before and our ship was staying overnight which would give us an opportunity to explore this area a little. You cannot venture outside the city on your own (a city law) unless you have some type of polar bear protection (such as a rifle). We had arranged for two independent tours on the first day and the guides on each tour brought their rifles along. The first tour was in a RIB boat to go out and look for walruses (and hopefully a polar bear). Unfortunately, we saw no polar bears and only one walrus. We did see a whale and a few puffins along the way. The highlight of the trip was some up-close viewing of two glaciers in the area. The largest was Nansen Glacier and are boat pulled up within a couple hundred yards of the ice cliff of the glacier and we were able to see some significant calving of the glacier (where large chunks of ice fall off into the ocean). There were chunks of ice floating all around the area along with a few good-sized icebergs. We were also shown an old abandoned Russian mining town on the shore. Many nations had attempted to mine the high-quality coal found on the island. It was a nice tour and gave us a good introduction to Svalbard and the area.
An hour or so after we got back from the boat, we had another independent tour set up to photograph wildlife in the area. The goal was to see a polar bear or arctic fox during the tour. Although we still saw no polar bears, we did see 2 arctic foxes (a mother and her pup). Our guide new right where the family of arctic foxes were because he had been watching their den for many weeks. We were lucky to catch the mother down by the water and watched her as she scampered up the mountainside downwards her den. She was not intimidated by us at all and came up to us within 30 feet to check us out. Our guide would ball up some moss and throw it to her and she would run up and nibble on it. It was a real treat to see an arctic fox close up in the wild! We were told that the mother had 3 pups but only one showed themselves from a distance. In addition to seeing the arctic fox we also had a great viewing of a reindeer. Although we had seen many reindeer on our trip, this one ventured up to within 20 feet of us and did not seem scared at all. We also saw many different species of birds during our tour. The first bird we saw was the arctic tern which we were told migrates all the way from Antarctica to Svalbard – this is almost north pole to south pole and is amazing to think they can fly that far. They are also very aggressive birds when protecting their eggs and young. We were told that they will even attack a polar bear if their young are in danger. As we were driving by a bird sanctuary in the area, these arctic terns would attack a camera put outside the window of the vehicle because they felt the vehicle was too close to their nest. Besides the arctic tern, we were introduced to the predatory gulls. We thought gulls only ate fish but these predatory gulls attacked in pairs and would grab young birds from their mothers. It was amazing to see these vicious birds. We also saw many Barnicle Geese in this area, as they were laying on their eggs, and trying to protect them from the predatory gulls. It was a great tour, and we learned a lot from our guide.
After our second tour we walked into town and just explored a little before heading back to the ship. On the way back we stopped at the Svalbard Brewery (or Bryggeri as the Norwegians call it). Greg had a nice cold beer from the furthest northern brewery in the world (eat your heart out James Digby!).
The following day we had a Viking tour which was just an introduction to Longyearbyen. They took us to the local museum which was very nice with some great exhibits of polar bears, arctic foxes, and other wildlife. The museum explained the history of mining in the area and had a great exhibit on the two most famous fur traders on the island (one who was still alive today and in his 90’s). After visiting the museum, the bus took us around the area and showed us the World Seed Vault. The Norwegian government built this vault 40 years ago from an old, abandoned mine. They allow countries around the world to store crop seeds in this vault to preserve the ability to produce food crops in the future in case of a natural disaster of some sort. These seeds are always maintained in freezing temperatures without the need for freezers. Over one and a half million seeds are stored there. As we left Seed Vault, we were taken to one of the abandoned mines in the area. It is amazing to see all the remnants of mining equipment around town and the many towers which remain that were once used to support the cables and gondolas that brought coal from the mines to various collection points. You see signs of this place being a mining city everywhere you look. Up on the sides of the mountains you can also see the avalanche barriers that have been built to protect the city below from avalanches that constantly happen during the winter months (which is most of the year in Svalbard). Svalbard is so far North that it doesn’t see ANY daylight (sun) for 4 months out of the year! During the summer months the sun doesn’t set for 4 months. It is a different place to live and the people we met were relatively young and love the outdoors. As our bus passed a small campsite by the airport, we were told that the year before, a polar bear had attacked and killed a camper in his tent. Since then, the campground has installed an electric fence around it! We decided we probably wouldn’t be camping in Svalbard! We left this tour a little early and asked the guide and bus driver to drop us off at the other end of the town so we could walk around and explore the area.
We took a few pictures of the local church and small little cabins behind the church. We elected to walk through the field behind the church to check out some of the old mining operation, but we were stopped by a bird that landed near us. It flew away and came back landing a little closer. It flew like this two more times, and then it became much more agitated and started to dive bomb us. Evidently it had a nest in the area and did not want us anywhere near us. Even trying to walk away quickly didn’t seem to satisfy this bird and it hit our head a few times as we quickly walked away. Note to self – stay away from Arctic Terns! We passed a cemetery along the way and assumed the graves were miners that had died on the job. We could see one of the mine entrances as we walked, and we marveled at the towers built to hold the gondolas. Some of these towers were mounted on the sides of these mountains and would have certainly been difficult to build. We walked into town and went into their shopping mall which was impressive with the shops available. As we walked back to the ship, we stopped at the Husky Café so that Sharon could get a little coffee and take a picture with the local huskies in the café (the mother and her pup). We made it back to the ship and waved goodbye to Svalbard.
We were thinking about whether we would come back and due an expedition trip to try to see polar bears or go to Churchill, Canada where we heard it was easier to observe the polar bears. After we did some research, we decided we would go to Churchill, Canada in the future where we have found that polar bears actually walk through town in October and November as they migrate. They have many polar bear expedition trips you can take there, and it sounds like you are guaranteed to see polar bears there. Besides supposedly, being the Polar Bear capital of the world, it is also known as the Beluga whale capital of the world when 1000’s of Beluga whales converge on this area in Hudson Bay in the summer months. You are also supposed to be able to see the Northern Lights during most of the year. Well, we will be setting up a trip to Churchill, Canada in the future (maybe October or November 2024) to see Polar Bears and the Northern Lights! If you are interested, let us know!
Svalbard was great and we really enjoyed our time there. We are not sure if we will be back, but it is certainly a worthwhile place to visit.
Regards,
Sharon and Greg