Next day in Tanzania was spent in the Sinda Islands. There were no residents on this island but there were a few locals that came over to the island to try to sell some food and drinks to the passengers of our ship. They had lounge chairs and covered areas set up along the beach. Near this area was a large Baobab tree that looked like a large bottle. We were told there was a path in the middle of the island that would take you to the other side of the island. We decided to give it a try and ran into one of our guides walking back from the path warning us that you needed shoes because there was a lot of sharp coral rock on the path. Since we had our water shoes on, we thought we would be OK. About a third of the way down the path, we had already regretted deciding to walk there. The rocks were more like razor blades and the water shoe soles weren’t thick enough to prevent us from feeling the sharp protrusions of these rocks. There were deep holes in some areas that went down several feet and you had to maintain your balance as you tightroped down the path on these sharp rocks. We kept telling ourselves that we must be close to the other side since it was a very small island. As we walked further the path gave a very eerie feeling like you were walking some road to “hell” with everything dark because of the thick vegetation with overcast skies, and nothing but sharp, ugly, black rocks all around you. You could not hold these sharp rocks with your hands for balance because they would cut you. As we went further, we wondered if we would ever emerge and knew if one of us fell on these sharp rocks, we might not be able to help the person out of there. We never saw anybody during this hike, and we believe we were the only people (dumb enough) to walk this path through hell! Thank goodness after 45 minutes of walking this path we eventually emerged on the other side of the island. Hallelujah!!! Why our expedition guides let passengers walk this path was another indication that when they gave an indication that things might be tough, heed their warning because things were probably awful! When we got out to the beach on the other side, we ran into two other passengers who had walked along the beach to the other side of the island. They warned us of the rising tide and that we might not be able to walk back to our starting point before the water came in and you would have to wade or swim back to the other side. One thing was for sure though – we were NOT going to take that hellish path back!!!! As we started walking slowly back to the other side along the shoreline, we were constantly distracted by the many crabs that would poke out of their holes and the micro fish life that was all around us. It was really very beautiful, and we did not hurry back as the couple had warned us. When we finally made it back to where we started from, we were wading in about a foot or so of water. Sharon decided to do some snorkeling before we went back to the ship, and she saw a a pretty lionfish and a couple of red knobbed starfish. After we got back and washed up a little, we went back out on a zodiac to do a planned bird watching activity. We didn’t see many birds for most of the trip and then as we were about to go back to the ship, we saw a large African Fish Eagle which looks just like an American Bald Eagle. It was a very pretty bird and posed for us for a while before taking a graceful flight away.
The next day we arrived at Pemba Island where we had a full day tour to see the island and the famous Pemba Flying Fox. This was another dry landing for us by zodiac although it was raining steadily when we got to shore. We boarded buses and headed out to see the island. This was a larger island with a population of over 400,000 people which are primarily Muslim. As we drove along the island you could see how poor the people were and their dismal living conditions. Our buses were given a police escort everywhere we went to make sure all traffic was cleared out of our way. We were VIPs on this island and got looks from everyone as we rode down the road. Our first stop on this island was a school for young boys and girls. Everyone was dressed in their finest clothes when we arrived. It wasn’t just the students, but the parents came to see us along with other village people. They obviously do not get many tourists in this area. At the school we watched some of the lessons being taught and each student was excited to impress us with how they answered the various questions from the teacher. We bought some of the soap and spices being sold by the students for a few dollars. You are always anxious to give back a little to these poor communities where people work so hard and always seem so happy with so little. Everyone seemed to want their picture taken and we were more than happy to oblige. As we left the schools all the children and parents were furiously waving goodbyes and we were off to see the famous Pemba Flying Foxes. The flying foxes are large bats that have a head that resembles a fox and can only be found on the island of Pemba. These are some of the largest bats in the world with a wingspan of 5 feet. Back in the early 1990’s there were only a few hundred of these flying foxes left because people hunted and ate them. Today because of the ban on hunting and the conservation work done, there are estimated to be around 700,000 of these animals now on the island. A single tree will typically have up to 850 resting there during the daytime. These bats are nocturnal, sleeping during the day, while eating at night. As evening arrives “clouds” of these flying foxes fly out to other areas of the island where they consume large quantities of fruit (mangos, figs, and bread fruit). Before dawn they will be back in their trees to wait out the day since they are blind in the sunlight. We saw many of these bats up in the trees just hanging and waiting for nighttime. Something scared the bats in the tree as we were watching them, and the bats went scurrying around in the air before landing back into the same tree they had just left. As we rode back to the ship, our guide talked about some of the local customs. He explained that most men would have 2 or 3 wives. The men would have to give the father of the bride one cow to allow the women to be married and a man’s wives sometimes live in different houses than each other. We were told that the island gets most of their revenue from spices with cloves being by far the biggest crop. Tanzania is one of the top 5 producers of cloves in the world. We had an interesting stop in Pemba and only have one more stop in Tanzania.
We arrived in Zanzibar ready to explore and see as much of this island as possible. This is another large island populated by 850,000 people. Although it is mostly poor throughout the area, you can see areas of wealth due to the many foreigners who live on the island. This was the island where we were supposed to take a Distinctive Voyage group to see Stone Town and a spice farm but everyone in the group elected to do a different Silversea tour. Since all of Silversea’s tours are included (no additional cost) on expedition ships, there isn’t a lot of value in a different tour offering unless it is something very exciting. The whole reason we were allowed to come on this cruise (without paying anything for this very expensive cruise) was to host this tour and at the end of the day no one wanted to go on the tour. This allowed us to pick some different tours to go on and we decided to do a tour to see Seaweed Farming and the Monkeys or Jozani Forest. Zanzibar might be best known for its beautiful white beaches where honeymoon couples come from around the world but it is also well know for the Stone City that is a UNESCO Heritage Site and once a major trading center of the world. In the early years its primary trade was in spices and precious metals, but in the 1800’s it became known for slave trade. Today you can walk the streets of this historic city to reconstruct its past, but many people go to the Stone City just to see the house where Freddy Mercury (from the music group Queen) was born. Our visit to the seaweed farm was interesting. We got to wade out to the seaweed farms and get a demonstration on how they grew and farmed the seaweed. We were shown all the different farms that stretched out as far as you could see. The local women would come out to farm and harvest the seaweed. It is a very laborious job, and you must grow a lot of seaweed to make any money. There are about 25,000 women in Zanzibar who farm seaweed and they make on average $35 a month! It is one of the few jobs an uneducated woman can get. Seaweed is used for either food, medical purposes, or cosmetics. We were given a tour in one of the cosmetic factories to watch how they process the seaweed for cosmetics. China is shipped most of the seaweed for medical purposes while Japan receives the majority for food. It is an interesting industry, and some people (not the farmers) are making a lot of money from it. Our second tour stop was to Jozani Forest to see the monkeys. There were two main species of monkeys we saw there: Red Colobus and Vervet (black faced). These monkeys would let you get close to them, and they were fun to watch. We only spent about a half hour watching them and taking pictures but probably could have spent a couple of hours observing these fun-loving creatures.
We departed Zanzibar and Tanzania for the Seychelles Islands but not before Zanzibar gave us a beautiful sunset to say goodbye. It was made even more beautiful with the uniquely shaped Dhow boats sailing by in the foreground. It was a nice end to a nice day!
Sharon and Greg
Our 1st stop to Tanzania where we visited Kilwa Kisiwani, a town that dates back to the 9th Century as one of the most famous trading posts in East Africa and on the Indian Ocean. From 11th Century to early 15th Century this island community was a powerful city, political force and major trading center for Africa as well as many Asian ports.
Beach and snorkeling day at Sinda Island located about 10 miles from Tanzania. Our ship anchors about 1.5 miles offshore and we zodiac to the island shores
Great day in Mkoani Pemba Island, Tanzania - located 35 miles from the Tanzania coast. The island is 42 miles long and 14 miles wide. Pemba Island is known for cloves such as cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper. A great day visiting two local schools and viewing the Pemba Flying Foxes.
Today we’re in Zanzibar, an island about 22 miles from the mainland Tanzania. Zanzibar was once known as the capital of the world for spices and slave trade in the 19th Century. 50,000 slaves passing the Zanzibar slave market each year, with many dying en route. The trade was in the Market Square, in the heart of Stone Town. Today it’s one if the world’s most popular UNESCO World Heritage Sites.